Arma Veirana 2022 Season Post 4: First Day Off!

 

We have been joined in the lab by Alex Bertacchi, a PhD student from Yale University whose interest lies in combining zooarchaeology with stable isotope analysis to answer questions related to diet, mobility, territoriality and resource stress. Alex is sampling teeth found during excavation of the Arma Veirana cave to get a better understanding of the faunal material we have been coding in the lab. 

 

On Monday July 18th we had our first full day off, so we students took off down the Via del Sale, a medieval path on which salt was transported throughout Liguria from the coast up into the mountains. From Erli, you can follow the path towards the coast, or further up the valley. We decided to hike it down to Zuccarello, a nearby town, first meandering through the beautiful medieval streets of lower Erli. 

The Via del Sale took us by a Roman bridge that spans the Neva stream and 2 miles up and down wooded hillsides to the sleepy medieval town of Zuccarello. The heat was already creeping into the day and we were easily distracted by the stunning landscape and alluring coolness of the creek, so it took longer than we anticipated. 

 

We arrived in Zuccarello hot and hungry, so after filling up our water bottles from a deliciously cool public fountain, we immediately sought out lunch. The colorful buildings and vibrant flowers lining the streets make Zuccarello a welcoming town and we soon found a restaurant for lunch, where we were grateful for Alex's ability to communicate for us in his native tongue, Italian. After filling up on pesto and tiramisu, we walked to a nearby café to top it off with affogato (vanilla gelato poured over a hot shot of espresso). 

 

We continued on through Zuccarello, coming across a very friendly cat and finding all sorts of fun glimpses into their medieval past. We eventually left the town, climbing higher and higher towards the sun to explore the Castello di Zuccarello, a widely-visible ruin on a hilltop overlooking the Neva valley. The first reference of the Castello was in the 12th century and it was only recently attended to by archaeologists, though detailed excavations have not been undertaken. 

 

The sun was blazing down on us as we reached the ruin and we gladly sought shelter from the heat in a shaded archway. After taking in the views and all the breeze we could, we headed back down into Zuccarello. To cool off, we found refuge in La Chiesa di San Bartolomeo, which was constructed in the 13th century. Its beautiful baroque interior sparkled in the early afternoon sun that streamed in through the windows. 

 

When we felt rejuvinated and our water bottles were once again full, we headed back up the Via del Sale. Luckily, a few clouds had rolled in and the breeze picked up, making the hike up the valley enjoyable. We stopped at the old Roman bridge for a dip in the cool, refreshing Neva stream before making our way back into Erli. After a full 8 hours in the sun, you can imagine how excited we were to be back home.